Reviving American Hemp: The Story of the Benton Work Shirt
A Montana hemp crop was harvested in 2020, marking the beginning of a project by two local companies to create clothing entirely within the United States. The venture aimed to produce hemp-based clothing, a versatile material with various applications, including fabrics, home insulation, and edible seed oils. However, due to the long-standing federal restrictions on hemp, the companies had to establish a supply chain from scratch to make it happen.
IND Hemp, founded in 2018, initially focused on producing hemp seed oils but later expanded into hemp-based textiles. After two years of planning, the company launched its fiber production line in 2022. Around the same time, Great Falls-based apparel company Smith and Rogue approached IND with a proposal to create a line of U.S.-made hemp shirts. The collaboration led to the production of the Benton work shirt, a blend of Montana-grown hemp fibers and Arizona-grown cotton.
Despite the historical significance of hemp in American agriculture, its cultivation was illegal for nearly a century until Congress lifted restrictions in 2018. The legalization allowed Montana farmers to harvest 2,400 acres of hemp in 2024. However, the lack of institutional knowledge and infrastructure for hemp production in the U.S. posed challenges for companies like IND and Smith and Rogue to establish a domestic supply chain for hemp textiles.
The Benton work shirt, priced at $150, was a result of a complex manufacturing process that involved multiple companies across different states. The challenges included convincing companies to accommodate a small run of hemp-based material and coordinating the various stages of production. Despite the higher costs associated with domestic manufacturing, there is a growing demand for sustainable and locally-made products among consumers.
The successful launch of the Benton shirt in late 2025 marked a milestone in American hemp textile production. The experience gained from this project will inform future endeavors, including plans for a second-generation Benton shirt and expanding the range of hemp-based clothing. While challenges related to cost and scale remain, the companies are exploring hybrid models that combine American-sourced hemp with overseas manufacturing to meet the demand for hemp clothing.